QUICK SUMMARY
This DIY lipstick recipe gives you control over every ingredient that touches your lips. It combines a nourishing carrier oil, beeswax, cocoa or shea butter, optional natural coloring, and a small amount of essential oil to create a simple homemade lipstick you can customize from nude to pink, red, or plum.
Conventional lip products can contain trace metals, including lead, as impurities, but the current evidence is more nuanced than some older headlines suggest. FDA testing found that more than 99% of the cosmetics it surveyed contained less than 10 ppm lead, the agency's recommended maximum for cosmetic lip products. A separate university study found several other metals in lip products and concluded that exposure, not simply detection, is what matters. (1, 2)
We still prefer simple, plant-based ingredients whenever possible, but “natural” does not automatically mean irritation-free. Lips are sensitive tissue, so choose colorants intended for lip or food use, keep the essential-oil amount exactly as written in the recipe, avoid hot oils such as cinnamon and clove, and use non-phototoxic citrus options when the lips will be exposed to sunlight.
My DIY Lipstick recipe solves a problem I hear about all the time: how do you enjoy makeup without covering your lips in a long list of ingredients you would never choose for yourself?
Lip products deserve extra attention because they sit right around the mouth. Small amounts naturally wear off as we eat, drink, talk, and lick our lips. That is one reason I love making my own. I know exactly what is in the tube, I can customize the shade, and I can skip synthetic fragrance and other ingredients I would rather not use.
There is a better way to look your best, and it does not have to be complicated. This lipstick is really a jazzed-up lip balm with beautiful natural color.
Table of Contents:
Toxins in Lipstick
Lipstick is different from lotion or shampoo because incidental ingestion is expected. That does not mean every conventional lipstick is dangerous, but it does mean ingredient quality matters.
Some older claims about lipstick have been repeated so often that they sound like settled science. One example is the idea that every woman eats several pounds of lipstick in her lifetime. I have not found a dependable source for a universal lifetime number, so I would rather focus on what we actually know.
Here are the concerns that matter most.
Lead and Other Trace Metals
Lead toxicity is real, and lead can occur as an impurity in cosmetic ingredients because it is naturally present in the environment.
FDA has tested hundreds of lipsticks and other cosmetics for lead. More than 99% of the products in its surveys contained less than 10 parts per million, and FDA recommends a maximum of 10 ppm lead as an impurity in cosmetic lip products. The agency's exposure assessment concluded that this level would not pose a health risk from normal cosmetic use. (1)
That is important context. The old claim that simply detecting lead in a lipstick proves the product is dangerous is too simplistic.
At the same time, “below a regulatory limit” is not the same thing as “this is an ingredient I want in my homemade lip care.” I still prefer to reduce unnecessary exposure wherever it is practical.
A 2013 University of California, Berkeley study tested 32 lip products and detected lead in 75% of them, with an average concentration of 0.36 ppm. The researchers also measured aluminum, cadmium, chromium, manganese, and other metals and concluded that several deserved further investigation based on estimated intake at higher use levels. (2)
The practical takeaway is simple: trace-metal contamination is possible in cosmetics, but risk depends on the amount present and how much product is actually used.
It also means homemade does not automatically equal heavy-metal-free. Natural pigments, clays, and mineral powders can contain contaminants too. Buy your coloring ingredients from reputable suppliers and avoid craft pigments or unverified mineral powders on the lips.
Parabens
Parabens are preservatives used to help prevent bacteria and mold from growing in cosmetics.
The original version of this article described parabens as carcinogens because a 2004 study detected intact parabens in human breast-tumor tissue. That finding was scientifically interesting, but it did not show that parabens caused the tumors. (3)
Laboratory and toxicology research has also investigated estrogenic and antiandrogenic activity from different parabens. The strength of those effects varies by compound and exposure. FDA says that, based on currently available information, it does not have evidence showing that parabens as used in cosmetics have an effect on human health, and it continues to review the research. (4)
So why do I still prefer to skip them when I can?
Because this simple DIY does not need a conventional paraben preservative, and one of the reasons I make my own body-care products is to simplify the ingredient list. Avoiding an ingredient by choice is different from claiming that every lipstick containing it causes cancer or hormonal disease.
Synthetic Dyes and Color Additives
I also prefer plant-based colors whenever they work well.
Synthetic food dyes have been studied for possible behavioral effects in susceptible children when they are eaten in foods and beverages. That evidence does not prove that approved lipstick dyes cause the same effect from ordinary cosmetic exposure. (5)
In the United States, cosmetic color additives are regulated according to their intended use. FDA specifically notes that a color approved for one purpose is not automatically approved for the eye area or lips. (6)
That is another reason to be thoughtful with DIY color.
For this recipe, I love simple food-based options such as beet powder, cacao, maca, spirulina, or turmeric when they work with the shade I want. If you substitute another pigment, make sure it is suitable for lip or food use. “Natural” is not enough if the product was manufactured for crafts, soap, or another non-lip application.
Petroleum-Based Ingredients
Some conventional lip products use petrolatum or other petroleum-derived ingredients because they are effective occlusives that reduce water loss.
Petrolatum does not literally “suffocate” the skin. Occlusive ingredients work by forming a barrier that slows transepidermal water loss. (7)
Our preference is still to use plant oils, butters, and beeswax. They fit our natural-living philosophy, give this lipstick a beautiful texture, and contribute fatty acids and other naturally occurring compounds of their own.
This is one of those places where we do not need to exaggerate a conventional ingredient to explain why we prefer a natural alternative.
DIY Lipstick Recipe Ingredients
Many people wouldn't think of making their own cosmetics. There's a common belief that a DIY lipstick recipe takes a lot of time and money. That's not the case!
This recipe calls for a few simple ingredients. Here's what you need to add to your shopping cart.
Sweet Almond Oil or Shea Nut Oil: Carrier oils are a must when using essential oils! They help the EOs disperse through the finished product, reduce the concentration applied directly to sensitive tissue, slow evaporation, improve topical safety, support penetration, and can amplify the overall therapeutic value of a thoughtfully formulated blend.
Sweet almond oil is one of my favorite lightweight emollients for lips. Reviews of topical plant oils describe almond oil and other botanical oils as useful cosmetic ingredients for supporting skin softness and barrier function, although the effects depend on the oil, fatty-acid profile, skin condition, and formulation. (8)
Beeswax: Beeswax gives this homemade lipstick its structure and helps it stay on the lips. A 2023 skincare review describes beeswax as having occlusive, humectant, and emollient functions that can help reduce water loss and support the skin barrier. (9) Plus, it has that heavenly light honey scent!
Cocoa or Shea Butter: Both of these rich butters help create the creamy texture we want in a lipstick. Shea butter will always be one of my favorite DIY moisturizers, but cocoa butter smells like chocolate!
They work with the oil and wax to create an emollient, protective layer that feels especially good when the weather is dry, hot, cold, or windy.
Essential Oils: If you've never used lipstick that contains essential oils, you're in for a treat. The key is remembering that the lips are more sensitive than the arms or legs, and a product around the mouth is likely to be swallowed in tiny amounts during normal use.
For this recipe, keep the total essential-oil amount exactly as written in the recipe card. More scent is not better.
I especially like:
- Lavender: A soft floral option that works beautifully in natural body-care products.
- Peppermint: Gives the lips a fresh, cooling sensation. Peppermint can irritate sensitive lips, so stop using the product if tingling becomes burning, redness, swelling, or persistent dryness.
- Lemongrass: Gives a bright, spa-like aroma. Lemongrass is rich in citral and has recognized sensitization potential, so sensitive users may prefer another oil. (10)
- Citrus oils: These can make a lipstick smell wonderful, but choose a non-phototoxic option for a leave-on lip product whenever possible.
One important correction from older versions of this article: I do not recommend cinnamon bark or clove essential oil in this lipstick. These are “hot” oils and the lips are particularly sensitive. Cinnamon exposure has been associated with allergic contact cheilitis, and concentrated essential oils can irritate mucous membranes. (11, 12)
This also aligns with the safety note already built into the recipe itself.
Safer Citrus Choices for a Leave-On Lip Product
Some expressed citrus essential oils contain furanocoumarins that can cause a phototoxic reaction when enough oil remains on the skin and the area is exposed to ultraviolet light.
NAHA lists the following among commonly used non-phototoxic citrus options: (12)
- Bergamot FCF or bergapten-free
- Lemon, steam distilled
- Lime, steam distilled
- Mandarin or tangerine
- Sweet orange
- Yuzu
For a lipstick worn outdoors, choosing one of these is simpler than trying to calculate the phototoxic threshold of an expressed citrus oil.
Can I ingest essential oils?
Do not casually ingest essential oils in water or neat (undiluted). Internal use of essential oils requires proper dilution, product quality, dosing knowledge, and safety guidance. Learn more about how to ingest essential oils here.
This lipstick is a topical cosmetic. Incidental trace ingestion from normal lip use is different from intentionally swallowing essential oils medicinally.
Natural Food Coloring: This is the fun part! With a bit of experimenting, you can develop a beautiful shade that complements your skin tone. You can create the most beautiful nude, pink, red, and plum tones. The sky is the limit!
Natural food coloring gives us a way to personalize the shade while staying closer to the plant-based ingredients we prefer.
The important thing is to use coloring that is appropriate for contact with the lips. FDA regulates cosmetic colors by intended use, and not every “natural pigment” sold online is approved or appropriate for lip products. (6)
For personal DIY use, I prefer simple food-grade plant powders and the options already built into this recipe. Start with a tiny amount and add more until you reach the color you want.
Make DIY Cosmetics
Don't let this recipe intimidate you. It's simply a jazzed-up lip balm! Mix and match until you find your perfect go-to shade.
DIY Lipstick Recipe
Quantity
Ingredients
- 2 teaspoons sweet almond oil OR coconut oil, extra-virgin AND unrefined
- 1 teaspoon yellow OR white beeswax pellets*
- 1 teaspoon cocoa butter OR unrefined shea butter
- 4 drops essential oils**
- Natural food coloring***
Supplies
Instructions
- Set a large glass jar in a saucepan filled with an inch of water.
- Add the wax, carrier oil, and shea butter to the jar and melt over medium heat.
- Stir in optional coloring.
- Finally, remove from heat and quickly stir in a drop or two of essential oils. Pour into lip balm tins or sticks.
- Let cool.
Step One: Melt the Moisturizers
Fill a saucepan with 1-2 inches of water and place over medium-low heat. Add the sweet almond oil, beeswax, and cocoa butter to a double boiler or glass jar. Place in the saucepan.
Step Two: Add Coloring
After the mixture has melted, stir in your coloring. Start small, and work your way up.
Step Three: Add Essential Oils
Remove from heat and add the essential oil. Stir until the coloring and EOs are distributed evenly. Carefully pour into tins or lip balm tubes. Let cool before using. Enjoy!
Because this lipstick is made without added water, it has less microbial-growth potential than a water-based DIY. Still, use clean tools and containers, avoid sharing a used tube with other people, and discard the lipstick if the odor, texture, or appearance changes unexpectedly.
And remember, this recipe is about color as much as moisture. If what you really need is a simple everyday balm for dry lips without added pigment, use our extra-moisturizing homemade lip balm recipe instead.
Every DIY does not have to be complicated to matter. Replacing one conventional product with something simple you made yourself is one more way to know what is coming into contact with your body and to steward your home with intention.
References
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. “Lead in Cosmetics.” Source.
- Liu S, Hammond SK, Rojas-Cheatham A. “Concentrations and Potential Health Risks of Metals in Lip Products.” Environmental Health Perspectives. 2013;121(6):705-710. doi:10.1289/ehp.1205518.
- Darbre PD, Aljarrah A, Miller WR, Coldham NG, Sauer MJ, Pope GS. “Concentrations of Parabens in Human Breast Tumours.” Journal of Applied Toxicology. 2004;24(1):5-13. doi:10.1002/jat.958.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. “Parabens in Cosmetics.” Source.
- Stevens LJ, Burgess JR, Stochelski MA, Kuczek T. “Amounts of Artificial Food Colors in Commonly Consumed Beverages and Potential Behavioral Implications for Consumption in Children.” Clinical Pediatrics. 2014;53(2):133-140. doi:10.1177/0009922813502849.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. “Color Additives and Cosmetics: Fact Sheet.” Source.
- Lodén M. “The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair.” Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2023. PubMed.
- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. “Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018;19(1):70. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070.
- Kurek-Górecka A, Górecki M, Rzepecka-Stojko A, Balwierz R, Stojko J. “A Review of the Use of Beeswax in Skincare.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023;22(8):2166-2173. doi:10.1111/jocd.15718.
- Uter W, Geier J, Frosch PJ, Schnuch A. “Contact Sensitization to Essential Oils: IVDK Data of the Years 2010-2019.” Contact Dermatitis. 2022;87(1):71-80. PubMed.
- Bernaola J, Valverde-Monge M, Otal-Buesa M, Cullen D, Heras-Mendaza F. “Cinnamon Allergic Contact Cheilitis.” Contact Dermatitis. 2023;88(5):418-419. doi:10.1111/cod.14290.
- National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy. “Safety Information.” Source.
